How To Build An Exterior Barn Door
Barn doors have go all the rage when it comes to interior decorating – whether used as a sliding door, or purely as decorative focal betoken.
They not just add together rustic charm, elegance and style to almost any decor – they tin can likewise be an excellent way to save infinite vs. utilizing a traditional swinging door.
For that very reason, they have become the door of choice in our new "Unproblematic Firm" that we are currently edifice at the farm.
At just a little over thousand total square feet in the floor program, space is at a premium. With that in mind, we are using sliding befouled doors on each side of the chief hallway for doors to the primary bathroom and sleeping accommodation.
The barn doors piece of work perfectly with the overall theme of the firm, and will make it easy to navigate the hallway without blocking the pathway with traditional hinged doors swinging out into the open space. (Run across: Simple House Projection)
With all of those benefits, there was one huge drawback – the cost of purchasing the doors!
Nearly of the doors we constitute started out on the low cease around $400.00 – with others ranging all the way upwardly north of $1000.00 to $1500.00 per door.
Obviously, when you are trying to simplify and build a "Simple House" – that wasn't a very skillful option for the budget!
A few years back, we created our exterior befouled doors from reclaimed lumber for our barn, and then we decided to make this one of our new DIY projects and create the interior doors on our own as well – and we couldn't be happier with the results!
In a unmarried afternoon, and for a thou full of $125.00 – we built both doors needed for the hallway. I can't tell you how happy nosotros are with the finished product, and at a cost of effectually $l.00 each, the toll tag equally well!
DIY Barn Doors – The Process
Note: We do have complete step by step plans on our Etsy shop : DIY Barn Door Plans
The key in building your own befouled doors is to keep them strong enough to handle the stress of opening and closing, without making them too heavy and cumbersome to operate.
If you lot want a little more rustic feel – choose rough sawn lumber.
Our door is made of two 3/four″ woods layers – the backboard layer, and a front face frame layer.
At ane.5″ thick, the finished door is perfect to fit nearly any rolling befouled door hardware on the market. How you want your finished door to await volition determine what you employ for the backboard layer.
Step one. Creating the Backboard
For the dorsum lath, the option of material will depend if you lot desire a polish finish, or a more traditional grooved-board wait.
For a shine cease, yous can utilise a iii/four″ thick cabinet-course piece of plywood cut to the desired door length and width.
For our doors, we wanted a more traditional look – then we used 8″ wide natural language and groove boards purchased at a local lumber yard. The tongue and groove boards not just expect great – only add a tremendous amount of strength to the overall piece.
We cut each 8″ broad piece to our desired length (84″), and then ran the end pieces through the table saw to remove the exposed natural language and the groove slots on each side of the door.
We ended up using 6 total boards per door, and cut the ends off so the concluding measurement came out to 35″ wide – plenty to cover each side of our hallway door opening by a few inches.
Footstep ii Creating the Face Frame / Front Bracing
Once the backboard was complete, we assembled together the tongue and groove boards on a flat surface – and began cutting our front end frame pieces.
We used 3 1/two″ wide 10 iii/4″ thick pine boards for the face frame, and started by cutting two 36″ pieces for the height and bottom door strips.
This is an of import step in the process, particularly when you have tongue and groove boards – it creates a rigid cross piece that holds all of the tongue and grooves solid – and a solid space to somewhen hang your door hardware.
In one case the top and bottom face frame header boards are in place – you tin get a little creative with the rest of the face framing.
We wanted a traditional cross brace look, only in reality – the sky is the limit if you want to create x bracing, z bracing, or no middle bracing at all.
Nosotros finished by cutting out the remaining face frame pieces, measuring out the all important cantankerous caryatid by sitting it on the frame and tracing the angles for the cuts.
We then glued and nailed each piece in identify. In one case complete – nosotros turned over and used i ane/4″ screws to screw in the boards from behind – creating a solid i 1/2″ door that is set up for pigment, staining…and hanging!
For us, that chore will have to wait a week or two while the plumbing and electrical are finished and the shiplap walls get up in the house.
When it comes to the track and hardware, at that place are a lot of options, and yes they tin be expensive also.
We chose to go with a hanging door and bar roller – and were able to find a complete door set on-line for under $l. EWEI'S Homewares half dozen-Feet State Steel Sliding Barn Door Hardware – Blackness
Hanging is pretty straightforward, with a simple zipper of the plates and wheel to the door, and then hanging the rail above.
Now – if only I could effigy out how to forge my ain iron for the hanging hardware we could actually save… 🙂
For those interested – do have step by stride plans available in our Etsy shop ; DIY BARN DOOR PLANS
Happy Building! Jim and Mary
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Source: https://oldworldgardenfarms.com/2016/07/08/diy-barn-doors/
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